Beautiful Hallstatter See is peaceful in the early morning, the mountains cloaked in misty clouds, it's namesake town snuggles on its shores.
DAY 10 : All Day to Soak Up Salzburg
Mozart, Music, Baroque Sites (and a little Sound of Music)
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Just the facts Ma'am
How long we stayed: 2 nights Where we stayed: Cityhotel Trumer Stube Where we ate: Hotel Goldener Hirsch (serving Austrian food since 1407!), Restaurant S'Nockerl im Elefant (home of the Salzburg Nokerl) Highlights: Mirabell Gardens, The Dom zu Salzburg, Getreidegasse, Sound of Music Sights The Verdict: If you're on the GAS tour, skip paying for a separate Sound of Music Tour. Total. Waste. Of. Time. And. Money. Plus, many (ok, most!) of the popular movie sites are easily seen on the tour. |
The Salzach River in twilight shimmer.
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"Girls? We have a 'SITUATION'!"
Uttered with delight when anything was particularly wonderful and awe-inspiring! Salzburg is smaller than Munich (about 150,000) and different than I had envisioned. The huge fortress looms above, the city's architecture at once simpler, but refined baroque in parfait colors. We are delighted to learn that unlike Munich, most is original as Salzburg was spared the brunt of WWII bombing. In the gathering dusk we wind our way across the Salz Stream into the old town, along the quaint streets with their scroll-y wrought iron signs, Holger pointing out interesting historical touchpoints and modern-day recommendations. Our group dinner is a classic - weiner schnitzel with Austrian wine. I am tired, but we walk back the long way and I am glad: taking in the spires and domes and the full moon. Snuggling under the customary down quilt, I'm grateful for earplugs as the night life gears up on the street below." - Kristi's Travel Journal |
The Hills are Not so Alive |
It happens, I suppose, when traveling that expectations aren't always met and plans sometimes go a wee bit awry. Here's our buyers beware for the Sound of Music Tour that we pre-booked and paid for. If you're on the Rick Steves' Tour? SKIP IT!
From my travel journal: "Within 20 minutes of being in the Bob's Tour Van, we are all sure this is a BIG mistake. For the next 3 1/2 hours we are subjected to choppy driving, crass humor, lots of random information that has nothing to do with the Sound of Music. We are all disappointed and frustrated and sick to our stomachs at the loss of time and money. We see the site of the Von Trapp manor from across the lake - and that is the only site that won't be repeated tomorrow on our way out of Salzburg." Our advice? Skip the Sound of Music tours and use your free time exploring another aspect of Salzburg (like the Hohensalzburg Fortress, which we missed - booo!). You'll cover most of the SOM sites on the Tour anyway! (See below.) |
Our hearts are full as we continue to feel in awe at being in such glorious places, and the rich experiences we're having, and all of the memories we're making. These are moments of closeness and communion and grace - all that we're savoring now, will linger on long after these weeks are over. Once again, saying yes to joy! Yes to this amazing time together! Yes to the sweetness of deep and meaningful friendships! Yes to laughing at mis-adventure, and the beauty of this amazing world and the life we get to share." #YES2JOY!
DAY 11 : Austria's Lovely Lake District
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DAY 12 : Lessons of History at Mauthausen
Saturday, June 10. A day in which we turn to our final city on the tour, Vienna. But first, our route includes a heart-wrenching stop at Mauthausen Concentration Camp. A deeply sobering experience. The entire bus was silent, a few weeping, as we pulled away after our 2-hour stop. We are incredulous and reflective and swirling with questions. A systematic removal of personhood, dignity and basic humanity of people was the path that lead to the destruction of so many lives. Having been taught WWII history from the "victor's" perspective, I was fascinated to hear the experience and perspective of our guides - all of whom weren't even alive during the atrocities of the 20th century that played out here. It seems to me that Germans still bear the burden and scars of their nation's past and shame lingers today. They all, too, are intentionally taught about how Hitler was able to rise to power, and are keenly intent on not letting it happen again. |
DAY 12 : Continuing on to Vienna
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Just the facts Ma'am
How long we stayed: 2 nights Where we stayed: Hotel Am Stephansplatz Where we ate: Trzeniewski, Cafe Central, Der Liebe Augustin Highlights: Vienna's Opera House, Hofburg Palace Treasury, Kunsthistorisches Museum, St. Stephen's Cathedral The Verdict: A bustling, sophisticated city, the people classy and the cafe scene vibrant! We are still amazed to see so many women shamelessly enjoying desserts and ice creams! Cafe tables dotted with melanges, bright Aperol Spritz and cold beers. The Habsburgs outdid themselves. One and a half days is barely enough to scratch the surface of this beautiful city. |
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Hey! . . . I can hear you!
"Whisper Radio Units" are brilliant! They keep our guides from yelling, and discretely allow us to hear all of their valuable and interesting information. While we don't need them on every stop we make, the radio units (made even more comfortable by using our own earbuds) sure do make a world of difference in the hustle and bustle of busy city settings. |
Day 13 : Classy Vienna
History, Art and Coffee (and Cake!)
Day 14 : Farewells, Journey Home & Enjoying the Memories
Auf Wiedersehen!
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Packing ensues and I'm glad I tucked in the extra Rick Steves collapsable bag I purchased with my $100 tour credit. Kim and I will share it - stuffing it full of dirty laundry, freeing up space in our sturdy roll-boards for our more delicate souvenirs.
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All our bags (and Katy) at the Vienna International Airport. We'll travel together to London and hop separate flights home to Seattle.
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All good things must come to an end.
That adage is unfortunately true. While some of our fellow tour members have added post-tour days, we're packing up and heading home with all kinds of new self-understanding, and appreciation for this amazing world we get to be a part of.
That adage is unfortunately true. While some of our fellow tour members have added post-tour days, we're packing up and heading home with all kinds of new self-understanding, and appreciation for this amazing world we get to be a part of.
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Sometimes Truth really is Stranger than FictionWe girls had booked our flights to Europe together, but mileage plans made it necessary for us to take separate routes home from London's Heathrow Airport. A little sad, I boarded my plane, blew a kiss to Kim (who was seated in first class, lucky duck!) and headed back to coach, settled into my seat, nodding to the gentleman sitting beside me, put my earbuds in and tried to lose myself in a movie. Several hours into the flight, he excused himself to stretch his legs, and we did the airplane shuffle. Upon returning to his seat, he made polite conversation, asking if I was traveling for business or pleasure? I assured him it was all pleasure as I was returning home after almost three weeks in Germany, Austria and Switzerland on a Rick Steves Tour. After a moment of stunned silence, he smiled and introduced himself. He was Pat O'Connor and he was returning home from 11 weeks in Ireland where he'd been updating the Ireland Guidebook and leading several Tours. (And yes, may I say he was in coach, in the middle - not even an aisle seat. Color me impressed!) We had the most delightful time chatting about our travels, (he used to lead the GAS Tour). It was such an unexpected and sweet ending to my trip. I'd LOVE to take an Ireland Tour with Pat someday. But even if I don't get that opportunity, I'm sure his guidebook will be super helpful. It was a pleasure to meet you, Pat!
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